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  1. #1
    MallCrawler huufhearted's Avatar
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    Aluminum Tailgate Table

    While eating lunch one day last week in the back of the jeep, I finally got the drive to build a tailgate table. As a family we like to explore and often times picnic out, so having this will be a nice addition.

    Table up

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    Table down

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    And finally, a load test,

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    It is roughly 25" wide by 13" deep. The top is 12" x 24" 5052 .090 wall aluminum, the tailgate brackets are 1" angle and the supports for the top are 3/4" angle. I have a Metal Supermarkets a mile from my office and they had some pre-cut sheet aluminum ready to go. All in all it was about 23 bucks for the metal. The countless trips to the hardware store and purchases of a sheet bender (didn't work on the aluminum) and a nutsert tool, I'm about $150 I to the project , should have bought the Tera flex one...Oh well, I like projects.

    Support brackets are 8" with two mounting holes 4.5" apart on the upper section due to the vents on the bottom of the tailgate. All mounted using 1/4" nutserts. To keep it from flexing, the front of the table has 1" angle and the rear has 3/4" angle. The 1" is a little much, but I think it will provide a good place to mount things later on. I have more 3/4", so if I don't like it, I can easily change it.

    I made holes in the side to use pull pins, but really don't like the looseness so I ordered a set of spring loaded pins to keep it shut tight

    Right now I made two paracord supports and will have to plece them a bit better after the spring pins come in. For now the pull pins act as the lower attachment for the paracord. When closed though, the paracord acts as a damper and keeps it from rattling, I just don't like how the pins are used to hold steady when it's down.

    The left bracket had to be trimmed to fit over the plastic cover for the wiring, but that's about it.

    Future me would make it a bit less wide due to how the tailgate angles at the right side, I can't take the pin out without removing that panel. I would also use different mounting places, I found the areas where there were multiple sheets of metal. I may end up putting unistrut using my mounting points, then I can give myself more freedom of movement.

    It needs to be cleaned up and painted once the pull pins come in, I'll post a final then...
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  2. #2
    Freak of Knowledge ShutterBug's Avatar
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    Nice job so far!

    I've wanted a tailgate table for some time. I thought about building one, I still might, but there are some nice ones out there that I really like. This one from Springtail is my favorite, but it's $190.
    2014 Black JK Sport-icon - My "Lil' Mule"
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  3. #3
    MallCrawler huufhearted's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ShutterBug View Post
    Nice job so far!

    I've wanted a tailgate table for some time. I thought about building one, I still might, but there are some nice ones out there that I really like. This one from Springtail is my favorite, but it's $190.
    thanks, what you posted is what I was initially going for and why i bought the sheet metal break, however, the aluminum was too stiff. I like the folded design better and may redo this one down the road, but for now it works. the spring pins came in today, so once those are installed i'll tear it all down and paint it. my tailgate may get lined as well while I'm at it, it is looking a bit rough.
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  4. #4
    Freak of Knowledge ShutterBug's Avatar
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    I think I would skip trying to bend it and just weld on the sides and grind them smooth. But I really want some slots form molle gear, and outside of an angle grinder and a cutoff wheel, I don't have any way of making reasonably accurate cuts. Too many projects right now to even think about this one.
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  5. #5
    MallCrawler huufhearted's Avatar
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    painted and installed with the spring pull pins.
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    it is a bit difficult to close with the paracord, but it doesn't rattle. One of the supports broke due to my poor melting job, but it has been mended and all good to go. I may go to cable instead of paracord down the road, but going to try this for a bit.
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  6. #6
    Freak of Knowledge ShutterBug's Avatar
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    Where did you find the spring pins? I've been thinking more and more about making a table. If I had an AC TIG welder I'd consider making the hole thing out of aluminum. But I can weld mild steel. I've got an idea in my head, just need to put it in action. Too many projects!
    2014 Black JK Sport-icon - My "Lil' Mule"
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  7. #7
    Supporting Freak bradm's Avatar
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    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BTIFDVI

    I used a couple of those on one of my projects last year.
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  8. #8
    MallCrawler huufhearted's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bradm View Post
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BTIFDVI

    I used a couple of those on one of my projects last year.
    These are the exact ones I used. I added a brass nut to space it out properly and used a 1/4" Tap to install. Was really easy and with the paracord, doesn't rattle.

    You should make one!

    I know you said aluminum, but what about something like this? You could bend it, and it's slotted for MOLLE packs, or make it work at least.

    https://www.wallcontrol.com/slotted-...lboard-panels/
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  9. #9
    MallCrawler huufhearted's Avatar
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    24" one here...

    https://www.wallcontrol.com/24in-tal...etal-pegboard/

    And it's pre-bent...Thinking about it, I should have gone with this!
    Last edited by huufhearted; 05-01-2017 at 11:30 AM.
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  10. #10
    Freak of Knowledge ShutterBug's Avatar
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    Those panels look interesting. But I don't think the slots are big enough to pass a snap through. I was thinking I would use some 16 gauge steel flat bar and make my own weave of sorts. Should keep it lighter, but strong enough.
    2014 Black JK Sport-icon - My "Lil' Mule"
    JCR Offroad | Rock Krawler | Barnes 4WD | Artec | RCV | Ten Factory
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