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  1. #1
    Senior JK Freak
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    YES YES YES this has WIN written all over this! Welcome to the freaks
    MUD LIFE
    2013 JKU Black sport
    www.njjeep.org

  2. #2
    Senior JK Freak halo216's Avatar
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    Welcome looks like a good build

  3. #3
    Supporting Freak loud pipes's Avatar
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    Subscribed!


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    2012 COD MW3, #1627/3500 (Negra Modelo)
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  4. #4
    Supporting Freak Mokos's Avatar
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    nice build. I stretched my front end 5" with hydro assist too. It involved a little trickery but I didn't have to move my steering box. I moved everything else though. Curious what you are going to do. I haven't really tested mine out in the real world yet, but I think it should work well. I'm a little concerned about the body mount clearance. Might have to look into relocating those.
    Jeff
    07 2 dr silver one ton rubi - comp cut & stretched on 42" PBR's
    KRAWL DADDY OFFROAD

  5. #5
    JK Freak
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mokos View Post
    nice build. I stretched my front end 5" with hydro assist too. It involved a little trickery but I didn't have to move my steering box. I moved everything else though. Curious what you are going to do. I haven't really tested mine out in the real world yet, but I think it should work well. I'm a little concerned about the body mount clearance. Might have to look into relocating those.
    Interesting! Do you have a build thread where I can see what you did? Right now, there is a lot of fabrication in my plan. I have a couple mopar engineers who do the custom Jeep builds helping me with the design so that I don't reduce the structural integrity or safety. Not easy, but can be done. However, I'll take an easier path if a good one exists.

  6. #6
    Supporting Freak Mokos's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Invest2m4 View Post
    Interesting! Do you have a build thread where I can see what you did? Right now, there is a lot of fabrication in my plan. I have a couple mopar engineers who do the custom Jeep builds helping me with the design so that I don't reduce the structural integrity or safety. Not easy, but can be done. However, I'll take an easier path if a good one exists.
    my build thread is the one next to yours on the forum. one ton stretched 2 door on 42's. Not sure if I posted up details about the front end, but I'll explain.

    So to get the 5" front stretch with hydro assist, I mounted the coil over towers as far forward as I could without cutting out the ESP control module and the air box. the towers/coilovers lean a bit more than I'd like them to which in theory should affect spring rate, but it's well within the normal range of motion in the joints. the lower mounts connect to my lower link mounts to allow for maximum outboard stance (at full flex, they never go past vertical) and allow me to push the axle forward without having to cut up my engine bay to move the towers forward. (I may end up changing this down the road if I can figure out an alternative bump stop situation. I kind of want to mount the coil overs over the axle, but that's how it is for now). The steering box is still in stock location, but I moved the track bar bracket on the frame side as far forward as the pitman arm would allow and I moved the axle side bracket to just forward of the center of the axle (instead of in front of it like stock). The upper 3rd link mount leans backward a bit to make room for the track bar that's over the axle now and I clearances the bracket to make it work. The drag link ties to the double shear artec arms which moves it back a hair (but overall forward of stock). I don't see any issue with the drag link the way it is, but I haven't driven it yet either. the drag link and track bar are in line from top down and in front plane. I bent the track bar to kink just over the diff for clearance there, but it just contacts the sector shaft at full passenger stuff right now. I may have to adjust the track bar shape more like the stock track bar style shape which might resolve that, but it's minor. So right now, there isn't any clearance for the hydro assist ram to fit over the tie rod, so it's below it for now. Not ideal, but I could always skid it. I have been thinking about getting offset rod ends like the new rock krawler ones which might give me a little more room to play. would also give better tie rod/diff clearance.

    I look forward to seeing what you do with yours. hopefully we can learn from one another's builds. I have a feeling I will switch a few things around on mine before I'm done. I'm never satisfied with it… I won't be until I ditch this setup completely and go 4 link and full hydro up front.

    this shows how cramped it gets at full suspension compression on both sides. it's tighter than I'd like it to be, so I want to make some adjustments. I could always adjust the bump stops, but I want to maximize up travel.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails  
    Last edited by Mokos; 11-11-2014 at 07:56 PM.
    Jeff
    07 2 dr silver one ton rubi - comp cut & stretched on 42" PBR's
    KRAWL DADDY OFFROAD

  7. #7
    JK Freak
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mokos View Post
    my build thread is the one next to yours on the forum. one ton stretched 2 door on 42's. Not sure if I posted up details about the front end, but I'll explain.

    So to get the 5" front stretch with hydro assist, I mounted the coil over towers as far forward as I could without cutting out the ESP control module and the air box. the towers/coilovers lean a bit more than I'd like them to which in theory should affect spring rate, but it's well within the normal range of motion in the joints. the lower mounts connect to my lower link mounts to allow for maximum outboard stance (at full flex, they never go past vertical) and allow me to push the axle forward without having to cut up my engine bay to move the towers forward. (I may end up changing this down the road if I can figure out an alternative bump stop situation. I kind of want to mount the coil overs over the axle, but that's how it is for now). The steering box is still in stock location, but I moved the track bar bracket on the frame side as far forward as the pitman arm would allow and I moved the axle side bracket to just forward of the center of the axle (instead of in front of it like stock). The upper 3rd link mount leans backward a bit to make room for the track bar that's over the axle now and I clearances the bracket to make it work. The drag link ties to the double shear artec arms which moves it back a hair (but overall forward of stock). I don't see any issue with the drag link the way it is, but I haven't driven it yet either. the drag link and track bar are in line from top down and in front plane. I bent the track bar to kink just over the diff for clearance there, but it just contacts the sector shaft at full passenger stuff right now. I may have to adjust the track bar shape more like the stock track bar style shape which might resolve that, but it's minor. So right now, there isn't any clearance for the hydro assist ram to fit over the tie rod, so it's below it for now. Not ideal, but I could always skid it. I have been thinking about getting offset rod ends like the new rock krawler ones which might give me a little more room to play. would also give better tie rod/diff clearance.

    I look forward to seeing what you do with yours. hopefully we can learn from one another's builds. I have a feeling I will switch a few things around on mine before I'm done. I'm never satisfied with it… I won't be until I ditch this setup completely and go 4 link and full hydro up front.

    this shows how cramped it gets at full suspension compression on both sides. it's tighter than I'd like it to be, so I want to make some adjustments. I could always adjust the bump stops, but I want to maximize up travel.
    Got it. Interesting approach. If it works that is good stuff. I'm just going to move the steering box forward and make some modifications to the poorly placed cross member. I saw an interesting track bar approach with the axles I'm building. The track bar was placed behind the axle. Not what I'm shooting for, but the option is there.

    I considered 4 link front and full hydro, but I still like to street drive it. I also plan to maintain all the electronics and the roaming steering wheel of full hydro would blow the computers mind.

  8. #8
    Supporting Freak Mokos's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Invest2m4 View Post
    Got it. Interesting approach. If it works that is good stuff. I'm just going to move the steering box forward and make some modifications to the poorly placed cross member. I saw an interesting track bar approach with the axles I'm building. The track bar was placed behind the axle. Not what I'm shooting for, but the option is there.

    I considered 4 link front and full hydro, but I still like to street drive it. I also plan to maintain all the electronics and the roaming steering wheel of full hydro would blow the computers mind.
    how are people moving the steering box forward without issues with the radiator? That was the main reason I never moved it. If I could figure out how to make it fit, I think it would solve my sector shaft contact issue.

    I still want to try to drive mine on road if it doesn't cause me too much trouble as well.
    Jeff
    07 2 dr silver one ton rubi - comp cut & stretched on 42" PBR's
    KRAWL DADDY OFFROAD

  9. #9
    Freak For Life Goosed's Avatar
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    01-06-2014
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    How many miles did you get out of those synergy ball joints? That's odd...


    Sent from your moms bed...

  10. #10
    JK Freak
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    Quote Originally Posted by Goosed View Post
    How many miles did you get out of those synergy ball joints? That's odd...


    Sent from your moms bed...
    4000 maybe? I wheel A LOT and most of it is big rocks and hard on parts. Synergy was cool and sent free replacements out though.

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