Hey guys - this is a thread I put together on another Forum that I thought you might find beneficial for the usual "will this size tire fit with this lift", or "will these wheels work" questions.
Cheers,
Mike
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The JK with stock wheels, no spacer, no lift
32" tires: no rubbing
33" tires: some rubbing can be cured with minor trimming of the stock airdam (applies to 12.5" wide tire)
35" tires: don't try (12.50" wide tire will rub without aftermarket wheels or wheel spacer)
The JK with stock wheels, 1 1/2" wheel spacer, no lift, Bushwacker flat-top flares
32" tires: no rubbing
33" tires: no rubbing
35" tires: rubbing that can be cured with trimming pinch-seam, possibly no trimming if you're sticking to the street only...watch those speed bumps
37" tires: don't try
The JK with stock wheels, 1 1/2" wheel spacer, 2" lift
33" tires: no rubbing
35" tires: some rubbing that can be cured with minor trimming of stock airdam, and fender flares/liners. Pinch seam trim recommended.
37" tires: don't try
The JK with stock wheels, 1 1/2" wheel spacer, 3" lift
33" tires - no rubbing, looks silly (lots of space between fenders and tires)
35" tires - no rubbing, trimming of pinch seam recommended
37" tires - minor rubbing with stock flares. No rubbing with flat flares. Proper bumpstop length and pinch seam trim necessary.
The JK with stock wheels, 1 1/2" wheel spacer, 4" lift
33" tires: no rubbing - entirely too much lift for the tire size
35" tires: no rubbing
37" tires: some rubbing (minor), none with flat flares - proper bumpstop length and pinch seam trim neccessary
38" tires: be careful - flat flares necessary, trimming necessary
39" tires: don't try without 1" body lift, trimming, and flat flares
The 1.5" wheel spacer will work as an alternative to new wheels, but many will recommend the replacement of your stock wheel as a safer alternative. This is an ongoing debate; regardless of your opinion on the matter, when buying a NEW AFTERMARKET WHEEL for a 12.5" wide tire, 4.7" backspacing is the MAXIMUM acceptable amount of backspacing to avoid using wheel spacers. 4.5" is recommended, and 3.75-4" is necessary for 14.5" wide tires.
A Wider rim width will not effect the proximity of the tire to the steering components, sway bar end links, or fender flares/liners/wind dam - only a change in tire width will do this. A wider narrower rim will produce a ballooning effect on a wider tire, while the wider 8-10" rims will produce a flatter sidewall on the wider tires. The stock 7.5" wide rim is sufficient for a 12.5" wide tire, but as you mentioned, the 6" backspacing will cause rubbing in the rear on the swaybar end link, and rubbing on the front at full lock.
This is where the 1.5" wheel spacer comes into play, again as you already have mentioned. It effectively creates a total backspacing of 4.5". For that matter, a 1.25" wheel spacer will work as well, but it pushes the max limit for backspacing out of many peoples' comfort zones at 4.75".
The wheel spacer is argued as an inexpensive bandaid fix to make tires work - in all reality, it is not inexpensive. A hub centric wheel specer set of TWO will run about $100, or $200 for a full set of four. You're well on your way to an inexpensive set of steel rims at this cost, and you haven't yet factored in the cost of the stock tire holder extension bracket for your larger spare tire, or the extended bumpstops for the tailgate, or the tailgate reinforcement kit. The proponents of wheel spacers will argue that for years and mile upon mile, they have run spacers with no issues, and many have. But trust the first time you see a wheel spacer sheer off of the hub on the trail, you will second guess the setup
When looking towards aftermarket wheels, you have 3 things to consider:
Obviously - we also have wheel and tire weight to consider. Steel rims are heavier than alloys, D and E rated tires are heavier and stiffer than C rated tires. Take all of this into consideration. Many of the tires for our 17" wheels are D rated and D rated only. Good for the heaviest Wranglers to date, but not as plyable of a sidewall (doesn't bend and conform to the trail as well at lower PSI as the C rated tires we ran on our CJs, YJs, TJs). Avoid E rated tires if possible - you're not pulling a 10K pound trailer with your JK, and if you are - hook your GoPro up to the JK so I can witness the catastrophe
- Are the hub or lug centric? Hub centric is ideal, knowing that your wheel perfectly centers itself around the hubs center without force from the lugs to properly allign.
- What is the backspacing? I consider 4.7" the max allowable, but would suggest looking for wheels with 3.75-4.5" if you ever will consider going wider than a 12.5" tire.
- What is the rim width? Again, the stock wheel at 7.5" wide is sufficient for a 12.5" wide tire, but if you're going aftermarket, look at 8-10". The 8" width will be great for 10.5-13.5" wide tires. 14.5-15.5" tires should probably be mounted to 10" wide rims. Above and beyond the aforementioned "ballooning" effects, or lack thereof, a wider tire on too narrow a rim will be more prone to breaking from the bead at lower pressures.
FITMENT OF LARGER TIRE ON THE STOCK CARRIER
It is tough to determine whether a larger tire will fit on the stock carrier without adjustments being made, because of the various different sizes of tires available, and the descrepencies between the actual inflated size and the advertised size of a given tire. Both diameter and width effect the fitment of a larger tire to the stock carrier. A wider tire will make contact with the tailgate/carrier before the stock carriers lugs have come through the STOCK WHEEL. A larger DIAMETER can make contact with the stock rear bumper.
These Guidelines are generally speaking, and not set in stone, and each assume a tire width of 12.5":
33" tire on stock wheel - will not make contact with the stock bumper, will make contact with tailgate/stock carrier. Requires a stock tire carrier extension bracket
35" tire on stock wheel - same issue as the 33, but now with the possibility of contact with the stock rear bumper as well, depending upon actual inflated size
37"+ tire - DO NOT TRY
Your solutions are one of three:
Solution numbers one and two will most likely require you to buy extended tailgate bumpstops. Daystar makes these (you can find them by clicking here)- inexpensive, and necessary to ensure that your tire is well snubbed, and not rattling your tailgate skin to pieces. Most aftermarket tire carriers will come equipped with the equipment necessary to properly secure your tire...unless you buy from the Chinese. Just sayin'
- An aftermarket wheel with the backspacing previously suggested will clear width issues on the stock carrier, but you still have the possibility of rubbing the stock rear bumper. Minor trimming can alleviate this.
- Buy the tire carrier relocation bracket You can find an example of this part by clicking here
- Buy an aftermarket rear bumper with swingaway tire carrier, or a body mounted swingaway tire carrier, or a combination of both. Whatever suits your style/function/budget.
Many of our fellow forum members have found security in buying a tailgate reinforcement kit, when running a heavier tire or tire/wheel combo on the stock carrier. Believe it or not, the hinges are not the weak point on the tailgate, they're plenty strong. It is the spot welds on the tailgate skin that can separate from undue stress. This should not pose an issue if your tire is properly snubbed, BUT, for only $30, you can play the better safe than sorry game. you can find these by clicking here