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  1. #1
    Senior JK Freak D_engel's Avatar
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    12-13-2011
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    Tempe, AZ
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    DIY One Ton Tie Rod and Drag Link

    After 3 years and close the 30k miles, its finally time to upgrade the stock steering components. After shopping around a bit, I wasn't happy with the prices on aftermarket units available so I chose to build my own tie rod and drag link. After doing my research, I ordered DOM tubing, TRE's and bungs for a total of $270 with shipping. Everything was purchased from Ruff Stuff with the exception of the offset TRE's which are currently on backorder on the site.

    I decided to document the whole process to serve as a guideline for others looking to replace the stock components without breaking the bank. I will separate this write-up into two posts for those only looking to replace one component at a time.

    Tie Rod

    Parts:
    54" Length 1.5" .25 Wall DOM
    (1) LH 7/8" Hex Head TRE Tube Adapter 18TPI
    (1) RH 7/8" Hex Head TRE Tube Adapter 18TPI
    (1) LH GM 1 Ton Offset TRE
    (1) RH GM 1 Ton Offset TRE

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    1) Take a measurement of the stock tie rod from the center of the tie rod ends. This measurement does not have to be exact since the new tie rod is adjustable. In my case, my tie rod was set at 59 inches.
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    2) Assemble the offset TRE's with the jam nut threaded all the way forward and 1/2" of threads exposed in front of the bung. Measure the length of the TRE assembly from the center of the joint to the end of the bung. In my case, this measured 3.75".
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    3) Now mark your tubing for the cut. It will be the overall length of the stock tie rod - (2) length of TRE assembly. In my case this is 59"-(2 x 3.75")= 51.5"
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    4) Tape off the cut line and make the cut with the tool of your choosing (chop saw, ban saw, cutting wheel)
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    5) Clean the edges of the tubing and grind a 45* bevel with your grinder. This will help ensure adequate penetration during welding.
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    6) Slide the bungs in the tube and weld using the machine of your choice. I will be using my Miller Diversion 180 TIG for this application (Go easy on me. This is my first real TIG project).
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    7) Prep your metal and paint the finished product. Allow 24 hours curing time before installing the TRE's and installing on the Jeep.
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  2. #2
    Senior JK Freak D_engel's Avatar
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    12-13-2011
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    Drag Link

    Parts:
    48" Length 1.5" .25 Wall DOM
    (1) LH 7/8" Hex Head TRE Tube Adapter 18TPI
    (1) RH 7/8" Hex Head TRE Tube Adapter 18TPI
    (1) LH GM 1 Ton Standard TRE
    (1) RH GM 1 Ton Standard TRE


    1) Make a mark on the stock drag link at the center of the bend. Try to be as precise as possible. Measure from this mark to the center of both TRE's and record these numbers. I came up with 6.5" on the passenger side and 35" on the driver side.
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    2) Assemble the standard TRE's with the jam nut threaded all the way forward and 1/2" of threads exposed in front of the bung. Measure the length of the TRE assembly from the center of the joint to the end of the bung. In my case, this measured 3.75".
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    3) In preparation of bending the tube, make a mark on the tubing the length of the driver side portion of the drag link - length of the TRE assembly. In my case this is 35"-3.75"= 31.25". This mark will serve as the center line for the bend as well as a reference point for the final cut.

    4) Using your bender with a 1.5" die, create a 25* bend. This mimics the bend in the stock drag link, allowing for use in both stock and flipped position. (My cheapo HF bender was pushing it)
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    5) To mark your final cut, measure from your bend center line the length of the passenger side portion of the drag link - length of the TRE assembly. 6.5"-3.75"= 2.75.
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    6) Tape off the cut line and make the cut with the tool of your choosing (chop saw, ban saw, cutting wheel)
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    7) Clean the edges of the tubing and grind a 45* bevel with your grinder. This will help ensure adequate penetration during welding.
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    8) Slide the bungs in the tube and weld using the machine of your choice. I will be using my Miller Diversion 180 TIG for this application (Go easy on me. This is my first real TIG project).
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    9) Prep your metal and paint the finished product. Allow 24 hours curing time before installing the TRE's and installing on the Jeep.
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    And there you have it. Solid steering links for less than the price of a tire.
    Last edited by D_engel; 06-20-2013 at 12:50 AM.

  3. #3
    New JK Freak bbrown626's Avatar
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    07-16-2013
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    SoCal
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    17
    Nice write-ups. Thank you!
    Despite the possible lack of strength when compared to chromoly I may give it a try. I don't have a TIG machine or experience with chromoly anyhow.

  4. #4
    Senior Moderator

    ECHO's Avatar
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    12-23-2011
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    Looking good!!! Keeping an eye on this one...
    Hi I am Craig, Retired U.S.Air Force
    2008 Detonator Yellow JK
    Named " PEEJ"
    " What people think or say about me, is non of my business "

    .................................................. ....[

  5. #5
    Senior JK Freak Settle's Avatar
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    01-03-2012
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    Delaware, OH
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    Excellent. Been running that set up for over a year and love it. Solid piece.
    2008 JKU Rubicon 3" BDS Lift 40" Nitto's Lots of other "bolt ons"

  6. #6
    Supporting Freak TheDirtman's Avatar
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    11-30-2011
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    Southwest Reno, NV
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    Nice write up, I run the ruff stuff tie rod as well. Kinda a no brainer for the cost of the kit.

  7. #7
    Supporting Freak That_guy's Avatar
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    04-21-2012
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    Phoenix,AZ
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    Well done D. I have the tie rod. Still need to do the drag Link

    Sent from my AT200 using Tapatalk 2
    Warning:Insanity has replaced reason in the modification of this vehicle

  8. #8
    Senior JK Freak Brandon1024's Avatar
    Join Date
    12-11-2011
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    Barrington
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    Glad you finally got it all together! Time for me to use this
    2013 Billet JK | Synergy 2'' Lift W/ Bilstein 5100 | 37x12.50x17 Goodyear MTR/K Raceline Beadlocks | Poison Spider BFH Trail Stinger | Poison Spider BFH Rear Bumper | Poison Spider Rocker Knockers | DIY PSC Hydro Steer

  9. #9
    Senior JK Freak D_engel's Avatar
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    12-13-2011
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    Tempe, AZ
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    Thanks guys. Its a pretty basic process. It took me all of two hours to do both, and that includes a dozen short breaks to cool off in the 110* heat. They'll be going under the Jeep today finally.

  10. #10
    Jeepineer JKred's Avatar
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    12-16-2011
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    Torrington CT
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    No shit, you actually put a bend in the drag link with the HF bender..... I ended up making mine straigh instead of bent, works well enough, but good to know that bender will do 1.5" DOM.

    Nice job
    -Mike
    2007 2dr X, 6sp, 35's on D44's, cage, 3" lift, hydro, etc.

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