Replacing Sport (LSD) axles to Rubicon (Elok) question

[doubleajaybrock]

I have a 2016 JKU Sport and I am going to replace my d30/d44 (3.21) axles with new rubicon 4.10 axles front and rear and was wondering about the factory traction control system and the LSD. Will this throw a code or cause any problems by converting to the locker rear end vs the lsd rear end?

Thanks Guys

Aaron

[ShutterBug]

Not at all. Although I did not have an LSD (are you sure you do? They are not standard - typically only come with tow package), I swapped my sport axles with Rubicon axles. No issues. You will need to reprogram your speedometer with something like a ProCal to account for the change in gear ratio.

But I have to ask, have you thought this through completely? I did the swap because I got the Rubi axles for a price I could not refuse. I still ended up putting a lot of money into them, but I am very happy.

The Rubicon housings are no different (aside from size of the front pumpkin) than the sport axles. They still suffer from similar weak points. I trussed my front housing to add strength.

If you intend to go out and buy crate axles, you might look to expanding your budget a bit. Just a thought. There are lots of competing opinions on the interwebs as to what to do and what not to do, so you have to wade through all the mess.

[doubleajaybrock]

Not at all. Although I did not have an LSD (are you sure you do? They are not standard - typically only come with tow package), I swapped my sport axles with Rubicon axles. No issues. You will need to reprogram your speedometer with something like a ProCal to account for the change in gear ratio.

But I have to ask, have you thought this through completely? I did the swap because I got the Rubi axles for a price I could not refuse. I still ended up putting a lot of money into them, but I am very happy.

The Rubicon housings are no different (aside from size of the front pumpkin) than the sport axles. They still suffer from similar weak points. I trussed my front housing to add strength.

If you intend to go out and buy crate axles, you might look to expanding your budget a bit. Just a thought. There are lots of competing opinions on the interwebs as to what to do and what not to do, so you have to wade through all the mess.

Mine does have LSD according to my build sheet. I can get brand new from and rear axles for 4K. I was going to use the Synergy Mfg Axle strengthen kit then a Artec Truss front and rear which I believe will provide enough strength that I will most likely ever need.

[ShutterBug]

Take a look at the Barnes 4WD truss. It fits better and is stronger.

Take a look at rear shock mount skids. Better yet, cut the old ones off and add heavy duty LCA brackets from Artec.

Another option for you to consider: Don't replace the entire rear axle. Just regear it to match the front. The two housings are identical, strength wise. Unless they come as a pair only. The internal dimensions are different, but outside of that, very little difference.

And yet another option: Don't get these at all and spend the money on a heavy duty front housing like a Tera 30. You can reuse all of your existing components and have a MUCH stronger front housing.

https://teraflex.com/shop_items/528f...d962f416e72ee1

Soooooooo many options!

[doubleajaybrock]

But I guess I could just buy a complete front axle from Currie/Dynatrac/G2 etc. and regear the rear.

[ShutterBug]

I struggled with this for a while.

The only reason I went the way I did was just good fortune.

[bradm]

My Sahara came with 373 gears and a traclok lsd. I pulled the gears and carrier, installed an Eaton e-locker and 5.13 gears. No computer issues at all and I am very happy with the results. I ended up with the same results you would get with a rubi axle swap minus a small amount of axle shaft strength.

Sent from my Galaxy S7 using TapaTalk

[BuckeyeX]

You will need a Procall or one of the other programmer's to adjust for tire size and the regear. When we swapped in the rear going from 3.21 to 4.10 I didn't save the update and ended up in limp home mode stuck in 2nd gear. If you trash a wheel speed sensor that is another story.

[tslewisz]

But I guess I could just buy a complete front axle from Currie/Dynatrac/G2 etc. and regear the rear.

I went with a Dana/Spicer Ultimate 44 with 5.13 gears and an Eaton E-Locker. The housing is stronger than a Rubi, the brackets are much better, it's caster corrected, and comes with a nice cover. I got it from River City Offroad on sale for $3200. My OEM Sport rear has matching gears, an Eaton True-Trac, and G2 axles. An AEV Procal fixed the speedo and disabled the TPMS for the aftermarket wheels.

IMO, my axles are better than a new set of Rubi 44's for roughly the same money. If I were you, a big deciding factor would be if 4.10's are really what I wanted. If you're going to regear those Rubi's some day I think you'd be much better off doing something different.

Cheers, Scott

[doubleajaybrock]

Thanks for the input guys. Im gonna go Teraflex and re-gear the rear