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  1. #11
    Senior JK Freak GOON SQD's Avatar
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    12-29-2011
    Location
    Newport News, VA
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    1,133
    Thanks Karl

    Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
    2007 JKU X w/ 4.10's
    4 inch Rough Country
    315/75r16 Treadwrights on Black Rock wheels
    Warrior front bumper, Olympic rear, Rubi rails, ACE sliders
    Rugged Ridge 8500 winch
    Rugged Ridge snorkel
    Hypertech tuner
    Cobra 75 cb
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  2. #12
    New JK Freak
    Join Date
    05-18-2015
    Location
    Canada Up there
    Posts
    6
    hey all
    To read an entire post just to find out it's unanswered.
    hope this helps someone out

    It's behind the heat shield. PITA (passenger side!) 3.8L jk
    Attachment 52861

    I still have to do mine. I just took a metal screw and passed it threw both broken ends like a needle and twisted it when I seen the fuss to fix it few years ago.
    doing LT headers soon so I will tackle it then with a good HD strap I found.
    Last edited by my75cj5; 05-18-2015 at 04:23 PM. Reason: 3.8L

  3. #13
    Senior JK Freak GOON SQD's Avatar
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    12-29-2011
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    Newport News, VA
    Posts
    1,133
    I too found one behind the heat shield but it wasn't easy to get too. I bent the shield all up messing with it, so the new ground strap was the easy route for me.
    2007 JKU X w/ 4.10's
    4 inch Rough Country
    315/75r16 Treadwrights on Black Rock wheels
    Warrior front bumper, Olympic rear, Rubi rails, ACE sliders
    Rugged Ridge 8500 winch
    Rugged Ridge snorkel
    Hypertech tuner
    Cobra 75 cb
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  4. #14
    New JK Freak
    Join Date
    05-18-2015
    Location
    Canada Up there
    Posts
    6
    Quote Originally Posted by my75cj5 View Post
    hey all
    To read an entire post just to find out it's unanswered.
    hope this helps someone out

    It's behind the heat shield. PITA (passenger side!) 3.8L jk
    Attachment 52861

    I still have to do mine. I just took a metal screw and passed it threw both broken ends like a needle and twisted it when I seen the fuss to fix it few years ago.
    doing LT headers soon so I will tackle it then with a good HD strap I found.
    I had posted it but it disappeared
    !
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	3.8l ground strap location.jpg 
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ID:	52885
    Last edited by my75cj5; 05-19-2015 at 11:41 PM.

  5. #15
    New JK Freak
    Join Date
    02-23-2013
    Location
    jersey shore
    Posts
    2
    I am having the same issues but in my 2011 the batter wiring harness is only specific to its year(2011)Click image for larger version. 

Name:	JKBATTERYCABLE.jpg 
Views:	39 
Size:	35.3 KB 
ID:	57561 as you can see, i'm tring to find where this ground goes and how the hell to get to it...i have traced it best i could to(see pic) Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20170312_123840.jpg 
Views:	39 
Size:	96.8 KB 
ID:	57562.

  6. #16
    New JK Freak
    Join Date
    02-23-2013
    Location
    jersey shore
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    2
    is there a schematic for the battery wiring harness. i posted pictures of the part and its info

  7. #17
    Senior Moderator

    ECHO's Avatar
    Join Date
    12-23-2011
    Location
    Pennsylvania Grand Canyon
    Posts
    12,280
    Quote Originally Posted by JEEPJKGRRL View Post
    is there a schematic for the battery wiring harness. i posted pictures of the part and its info
    I tried looking on my system at work.. sorry no help
    Hi I am Craig
    Retired USAF, Currently Service Manager at a Dodge/Chrysler JEEP & Ram Dealership
    Generally just a Crusty ole Smart Arse
    2018 JKU RUBICON RECON EDITION

  8. #18
    New JK Freak Ranger's Avatar
    Join Date
    01-28-2017
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    16
    My JK had an intermittent problem with not starting. It would dry click like a low battery can do. Everyone I asked said "neutral safety switch", and sure enough, it I put it in neutral and out of park, then it would fire.

    This went on, and got worse. I was looking up how to replace the NSS, and found one person talking about it being a bad ground.

    So I added a HEAVY wire from the battery to the frame. And another heavy wire from the frame to the starter itself. (There was one bolt space on the starter that was empty, no bolt in it. So I added that bolt and used it to hold the wire.

    I realize that you shouldn't have to do this, but that is the advice I got from an old timer mechanic. He said that Jeeps have always had issues with getting good grounds. I figured what harm would come in adding better grounds?

    So I did it. And it hasn't done it since. And that has been over a year.

  9. #19
    New JK Freak
    Join Date
    02-15-2015
    Location
    Auburn, Alabama
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    3
    Quote Originally Posted by Ranger View Post
    My JK had an intermittent problem with not starting. It would dry click like a low battery can do. Everyone I asked said "neutral safety switch", and sure enough, it I put it in neutral and out of park, then it would fire.

    This went on, and got worse. I was looking up how to replace the NSS, and found one person talking about it being a bad ground.

    So I added a HEAVY wire from the battery to the frame. And another heavy wire from the frame to the starter itself. (There was one bolt space on the starter that was empty, no bolt in it. So I added that bolt and used it to hold the wire.

    I realize that you shouldn't have to do this, but that is the advice I got from an old timer mechanic. He said that Jeeps have always had issues with getting good grounds. I figured what harm would come in adding better grounds?

    So I did it. And it hasn't done it since. And that has been over a year.
    We had the same issue. Click, no start. Hit the "jump start" button on our dual battery system (connects both batteries), and it didn't start either. It turns out that the flat braided cable that connects to the engine block, hood, and firewall had sustained damage and was virtually non-existent. We ran a temporary 4AWG cable from alternator bracket bolt to the negative battery post and the Jeep started up just fine.

    Then we went to custombatterycables (dot) com and ordered two huge 1/0 cables, SGX rated, with HD lugs. Connected one from alternator bracket to a ground stud on the driver side engine compartment (close to where the washer fluid is located). I'm going to connect the second one from the same alternator bracket bolt to the dual battery system's common ground bus once we have time.

    Also about to upgrade the winch wiring from 2AWG to 1/0AWG and put a 500A ANL fuse + PAC-500 solenoid on that circuit. Going to repurpose the old winch power leads to replace the alternator positive lead, make a battery negative to body ground cable, and make a battery negative to engine ground cable.

    We also just ordered 25 feet of Electric Motion EM2081 that we're going to use to RF bond the Jeep in several locations, and also replace the faulty flat braided wire between hood/firewall/engine.

  10. #20
    New JK Freak
    Join Date
    10-09-2017
    Location
    Honolulu, Hawaii
    Posts
    1
    Quote Originally Posted by GOON SQD View Post
    I have the 2 flat braided grounding straps by the battery and one was coming off of the firewall and doubled back to the same bolt. Is that correct or should it go to the hood bolt? Also the other one coming off of the firewall and going to the engine block or something behind a heat shield is almost burned in half. What does that one do and where is it connected? How hard is it to replace to the same location or a suitable alternate location?






    Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
    Is this flat braided strap 3/16" wide and Cu?

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